Photo: StandFilm.com
Haida Gwaii means
"islands of the people," yet the archipelago, off the coast of
northern British Columbia, remains a solitary paradise where time has changed
little, the people are easy going, and the recreational opportunities are
endless. Totems still stand tall in the forests, orcas still breach the water
off the remote coastline, otters play, and seals sun themselves on the rocks.
It is a natural treasure, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that few have had the
opportunity to discover. One of the best ways to explore the area is by sea
kayak thanks to the myriad of inlets and waterways the run in and around the
150 small islands protecting travellers from the wild and woolly Pacific Ocean
waters.
What is it: Haida
Gwaii, also known as the Queen Charlotte Islands, are in a remote area of
northern British Columbia some 75 kilometres from the mainland and 60
kilometres from Alaska, and are only accessible by boat or plane. The area is
made of up two main islands — Moresby and Graham — as well as a stretch of
approximately 150 smaller islands primarily to the southeast.
Why bother? There
are few places, well, anywhere that offer fairly easy access to a place so
stunning and both naturally and culturally rich that it defies adequate
description. It has been called the Galapagos of the north thanks to the
immense biological diversity in the region from the mossy ancient rainforests
straight out of fairy tales to the beaches and marine life in the Pacific
coastal waters. But, it is also home to a 10,000-year-old native culture that
includes carving totems that dot the many islands in the archipelago.
What to do:
Kayaking opportunities are many, and there are plenty of operators in the
region offering trips of seven to 10 days. Some of the better areas to create
your own adventures include the sheltered inlets near Skidegate and Masset. And
a more challenging destination is the Gwaii Haanas National Park where the
Burnaby Narrows offers up some of the richest tidal life anywhere on the
planet.
Sidetrip: Despite
the northern climes, the area has an active surfing scene centred around the
Masset area, also the location of Haida Gwaii's lone surf shop
(northbeachsurfshop.com), especially during the fall months. Don't forget the
wetsuit, a very thick wetsuit.
When to go: Well,
it is remote so it never gets overrun, but the summer months are busiest,
businesses shut down during the winter, but theirs is a fairly mild fall that
coincides with mushroom hunting season if you fancy a chanterelle hunt.
Where to stay:
The Copper Beech House in Massett was recently purchased by well-known Canadian
poet Susan Musgrave (copperbeechhouse.com), but there are plenty of bed and
breakfasts and cabins available for rent (www.gohaidagwaii.ca).
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